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Home > Nepal > Mountaineering Expeditions > Kanchenjunga (8,586 m./28,169 ft.) Expedition
Kanchenjunga (8,586 m./28,169 ft.) Expedition
FACTS
  Elevation: 8,586 metres (28,169 feet)
# Ranked 3rd in the world
Location: Nepal - India
Range: Himalaya
Coordinates: 27°42' N 88°08' E
First ascent: 1955 by George Band and Joe Brown
Easiest route: glacier/snow/ice climb
Nearest Major Airport: Kathmandu, Nepal 		 
 

Kanchenjunga (also called Kangchenjunga, Kangchen Dzö-nga, Khangchendzonga, Kanchenjanga, Kachendzonga, or Kangchanfanga) is the third highest mountain in the world and the second highest in Nepal, located in the Taplejung district straddling the frontier between Nepal and India.

The rough translation of Kanchenjunga is "Five Treasures of the Snow", as it contains five peaks over 8,000 metres. Until 1852, Kanchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world, but calculations made by the British 1849 Great Trigonometric Survey showed Mount Everest to be the highest and Kanchenjunga the third-highest.

Kanchenjunga was first climbed on May 25, 1955 by George Band and Joe Brown of a British expedition. The British expedition honored the beliefs of the Sikkimese, who hold the summit sacred, by stopping a few feet short of the actual summit. Most successful summit parties since then have followed this tradition. After the alteration of the Nepalese/Indian frontier in 1975, Kanchenjunga became the tallest mountain in India.
:: BACK TO CLIMBING HISTORY
  • 1905 The Kanchenjunga expedition (1905) was the first attempt, headed by Aleister Crowley. Unsuccessful, it reached 6200 metres.
  • 1929 A German expedition reaches 7400m/24,300' before being turned back by a five-day storm.
  • 1955 Joe Brown and George Band make first ascent on May 25, followed by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather on May 26. This proved Aleister Crowley's 1905 route was indeed accomplishable.
  • 1978 A Polish team makes the first successful ascent of the south summit (Kangchenjunga II).
  • 1983 Pierre Beghin makes the first solo ascent and without oxygen.
  • 1986 On January 11, Krzysztof Wielicki and Jerzy Kukuczka, Polish climbers make the first winter ascent.
  • 1991 Marija Frantor and Joze Rozman attempt the first ascent by a woman but their bodies are later found below the summit headwall.
  • 1992 Wanda Rutkiewicz died on a summit attempt after she refused to descend in an approaching storm.
  • 1998 Ginette Harrison becomes the first and only woman to reach the summit.
Kanchenjunga (8,586 m./28,169 ft.) Expedition Itinerary
 

Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 02 - 05 Official Preparation day in Kathmandu.
Day 06 Drive to Phidim (3158m). Overnight camp.
Day 07 Stay in Phidim for arrangement of porters.
Day 08 Trek to Panchami. Overnight in Camp.
Day 09 Trek to Doban. Overnight in Camp.
Day 10 Trek to Khewang. Overnight in Camp.
Day 11 Trek to Yamphudin. Overnight in Camp.
Day 12 Trek to Amje Khola. Overnight in Camp.
Day 13 Trek to Toronto. Overnight in Camp.
Day 14 Trek to Tseram. Overnight in Camp.
Day 15 Trek to Ramje. Overnight in Camp.
Day 16 Trek to Glacier Camp. Overnight in Camp.
Day 17 Trek to Kanchenjunga BC.
Day 18 - 20 Leisure at BC for acclimatization.

Day 21 - 51 Climbing period Mt. Kanchejunga (8,586 m./28,169 ft.)

Day 52 Return treks to Ramje. Overnight in Camp.
Day 53 Trek to Amje Khola. Overnight in Camp.
Day 54 Trek to Yamphudin. Overnight in Camp.
Day 55 Trek to Khewang. Overnight in Camp.
Day 56 Trek to Panchami. Overnight in Camp.
Day 57 Trek to Ghopetar. Overnight in Camp.
Day 58 Drive from Gopetar to Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.
Day 59 - 60 Stay in Kathmandu.
Day 61 Departure to your own destination.
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