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Home > Nepal > Mountaineering Expeditions > Lhotse (8516 m./27,939 ft.) Expedition
Lhotse (8516 m./27,939 ft.) Expedition, Kumbu Region
FACTS
  Elevation: 8,516 metres
(27,939 feet)
# Ranked 4th
Location: Khumbu, Nepal
Range: Himalaya
Coordinates: 27°58' N 86°56' E
First ascent: May 18, 1956 by a Swiss team
Easiest route: snow/ice climb
Nearest Major Airport: Kathmandu, Nepal
 
 

Lhotse (8516) was climbed by a Swiss expedition in 1956. Its lower peak, Lhotse Shar, 8383m, sometimes considered a separate 8000m peak, Lhotse, which means "South peak" is part of the Everest massif, just to the south of Everest. The primary route on Lhotse is via Everest's South Col. but by 1955, despite the activity on Everest Lhotse was the highest unclimbed peak in the world.

The first attempt on Lhotse was by an international team in 1955. One member of the party was Erwin Schneider, during this expedition he began work on the first of the series of high-quality "Schneider maps of the Everest region. The same Swiss party that made the second ascent of Everest in 1956 made the first ascent of Lhotse from a camp just below the South Col.

Lhotse Shar was first climbed by an Austrian expedition in 1970. Various routes on the main peak were attempted by Japanese, South Koreans, Germans. Poles and Italians before the summit was reached again by German expeditions in 1977.

Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain on Earth and is connected to Mount Everest via the South Col. In addition to the main summit, Lhotse Middle (East) is 8,414 metres and Lhotse Shar is 8,383 metres.

Lhotse (main) was first climbed on May 18, 1956 by the Swiss team Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger. On May 12, 1979, Zepp Maierl and Rolf Walter of Austria made the first ascent of Lhotse Shar. On May 23, 2001, the first ascent of Lhotse Middle was made by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Serguei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition.

On 31 December 1988, Krzysztof Wielicki, a Polish climber, completed the first ascent of a eight-thousander in winter.

As of October 2003, 243 climbers have summitted Lhotse and 11 have died.

:: BACK TO CLIMBING HISTORY
  • 1956 First ascent of the main summit.
  • 1965 First attempt on Lhotse Shar by a Japanese expedition - reached 8,100m.
  • 1979 First ascent of Lhotse Shar
  • 1981 October 16 Second ascent of Lhotse Shar Switzerland
  • 1984 May 20 Third ascent of Lhotse Shar Czechoslovakia
  • 1996 Chantal Mauduit became the first woman to reach the top of Lhotse.
  • 2001 First ascent of Lhotse Middle.
Lhotse (8516 m./27,939 ft.) Expedition, Kumbu Region Climbing Itinerary
 

Day 1 Arrival Kathmandu. Transfer to your hotel.
Day 2 Kathmandu. Briefing
Day 3 Kathmandu.
Day 4 Transfer to the airport, fly to Lukla (2800m) and trek to Phakding (2640m).
Day 5 Trek to Namche Bazaar (3446m).
Day 6 Namche, rest for acclimatization.
Day 7 Trek Tengboche Monastery (3867m).
Day 8 Trek to Pheriche.
Day 9 Trek to Lobuche (4900m).
Day 10 Lhotse base camp.

Day 11-47 Climbing Period.

Day 48 Trek to Pheriche.
Day 49 Trek to Khumjung.
Day 50 Trek to Phakding.
Day 51 Trek to Lukla.
Day 52 Fly to Kathmandu.
Day 53 Kathmandu, free day
Day 54 Departure from Kathmandu.

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